In 1983 Tippi was working for Captioned Films for the Deaf, and was sent to Portland Oregon for an evaluation/Selection workshop.
"Well" she thought, "here I am on the west coast, almost to Alaska! I might as well go all the way to Seldovia and see Helen!"
In those days, travel budgets were generous, airfare cheap and travel agents accomodating. It was soon arranged. After the workshop, Tippi flew to Anchorage, hopped a commuter for Homer and took a little Cessna over to Seldovia. It was the 4th of July weekend, and the little planes buzzed back and forth like honey bees on clover.
After a wonderful 3 days in Seldovia, of which you will hear more, much more! Helen's friend Debbie Best flew back to Homer with Tippi and drove her to Anchorage. Debbie was happy to show off her peninsula, although there was no time to do more than stop for a photo op or two.
So this was Tippi's second trip along the Kenai peninsula. Two impressions remained from that first trip -- fields of lupin blooming along the highway, and the little town of Ninilchik. Debbie said, "It's a really quaint little town, too bad there isn't time to stop. Tippi was anxious to rectify that oversight on this trip.
We retraced our steps from Seward, but turned on to Rte 1 at Moose Pass. Rte 1 (294 Moose killed last winter, signs along the road warned) took us all the way to Homer.
First stop, Soldotna, at a huge, modern supermarket right along Rte 1 to pick up lunch makings. The prices there were not much higher than in the supermarkets back in Pittsburgh.
You can see Ninilchik from the highway, a cluster of small frame homes and cabins nestled at the foot of a bluff, and at the top of the hill, a Russian Church stands guard, like a mother hen watching over her chickies.
A side road down to sea level, a parking lot and a sign which welcomes the visitor and gives a little history of the place:
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My name is Ninilchik Village. I was settled around the turn of the 19th century by creoles, Russians, Aleuts and Indians. The names of my earlier children were Kvishikoff, Oskolkoff, Komkoff and Astrocin. They were retired trappers and hunters that wanted to find a homeland of their own. Some of their great grandchildren still reside here to this day. My Russian Orthodox Church on the hill was built in the early 20th century. My river and Cook Inlet are best known for their fish. My beaches are known for their clams. I ask that you please respect my people and their heritage their culture, their property and beaches. Thank you.
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The road into the village is narrow and rutted, and we were happy to park the rental car in the lot near the sign and walk in. We did not stay long. We walked around, and then climbed the hill to the churchyard. There was the church with its cemetery and a wonderful view.
We returned to our car and drove to the beach for lunch. Several campers were parked there. It was cold and blustery and we ate quickly and were on our way to Homer.
Homer, Alaska. We quickly found the Pioneer Inn, recommended by our friends and living up to that high recommendation. Our task for the evening was to explore Homer Spit and line up our transportation over to Seldovia, across the bay, the next morning.
The spit sticks out 5 miles into the bay, with a single road passing along it's length. The Ferry office is at the end of the spit, and a cannery, and the dock where the Cruise ships come in. Of the little shops that line the access road, many sell fine crafts and prints, there are several eateries, and many charter fishing companies. And all cater to the tourist. We noticed campers on the beach where there were no shops built, but a dismal, cold and sorry camp ground it was. The campers had built up windbreakers of driftwood and such, to protect their small tents from the strong, cold wind blowing in off the water.
A couple of weeks after we were there, a fire broke out in the cannery at the end of the spit. Headlines read: Spit Fire! The entire spit was evacuated, and those boats who were out fishing in the bay had to pull into Seldovia or Anchor Point instead. The Cruise ship quickly pulled away from the dock without its passengers. Can you imagine the consternation of the cruise passengers, returning to Homer to see a plume of black smoke coming from the spit, and no cruise ship?
Most of the evening was taken up in making arrangements to get to Seldovia the next morning. We thought we'd like to take one of the charter boats that gives their guests a ride up and down the bay before docking at Seldovia, but our time schedule coming back was such that we couldn't. We couldn't boat one way and fly the other - where would we put the car? So again, we were going with Homer Air.
When he heard she was headed for Alaska, friend of Tippi's e-mailed her:
Brrrr Alaska! I'll just have to 'parka' my butt by the computer until you return. 'Nome' sends jokes like YOU do! I won't 'blubber'. I'll just sit here and have 'pipe-line' dreams until you return. 'Juneau' anything about that state? I know a lady who has been there before, I guess 'Al-ask-a' about it. 'Snow' place like Alaska, she always says. Remember, I won't 'Moose' an inch until you get back.
to which she replied:
Anything Yukon do, Icon do, too! You just need to Anchorage me a little bit!
We don't need to Wrangell over which one of us is Whittier , we'll just Sitka down and Tak about it,
Yakutat, yakutat, yakutat.
I'm having a whale of a good time. With my Kenai, I saw Homer Spit and a Moose Pass. And then, just for the halibut, I took my Kodiak camera and filmed a Deadhorse .